The highlight of our second day traveling Route One on this mid-September Tuesday is to be our hike on the Coastal Trail on the cliffs at Quoddy Head State Park. A mere six miles from downtown Lubec, the West Quoddy Lighthouse is a beacon on the border of the United States and Canada.
Originally built in 1808, by order of President Thomas Jefferson, the original wooden tower was replaced by the current tower in 1858. With “candy-stripes,” it is the only such tower in the United States. Previously the lamp was illuminated with, get this, sperm whale oil and lard oil.
With a choice of trails, we opt for the four-mile macho man/woman Coastal Trail along the steep rocky cliffs with trees toughened by the punishing by the Atlantic’s harsh winds. The cliffs are remnants of marine volcanoes! Who knew!
The Coastal Trail starts benignly enough with a level trail that offers dramatic views to the ocean.
Then the trail turns mean. With rocks and roots crossing the trail, we hold onto branches as we descend; it’s more cliff climbing than hiking.
Keeping close the cliffside, we come to a point where we wonder if we have lost the trail or not. It’s zero fun so we backtrack towards the Bog Trail. We are looking for an enjoyable hike not an arduous one. Such is life at 73!
Opting for the level sublime Bog Trail, we catch a hiking rhythm.
With the sun soon to set, we get our 10K steps and more and prepare to return to our Eastland motel, three miles out of Lubec on Route 189. We’ve a warm bed, a continental breakfast ahead to prepare for our third and final day exploring Route One from Kittery to Fort Kent.
Part 10 provides modest evidence that we are not all that stupid