Dan Learns About Life on the Appalachian Trail at the Pine Ellis Hostel in Andover, Maine – Archive July 2011

Appalachian Trail

As an Appalachian Trail groupie, I just can’t get enough of the lives of thru-hikers (those Appalachian Trail hikers going from Georgia to Maine or vice versa in one calendar year).  In Andover, Maine, I learn that just down the road from where we are staying is the Pine Ellis Hostel where thru-hikers get off the trail to get a shower and sleep in the bunk room ($20/night) or in private rooms ($50 for two); get pizza and ice cream at the Andover General Store and pick up waiting mail at the local post office.  

Being bold when bold is called for, I ride up the driveway on my bike, park, and just step right up onto the front porch, acting like I know what I am doing, which I certainly do not.  Fortunately, I am a newcomer like everyone else.  David, one of the caretakers, takes me and a few others on a tour of the back bunkroom for four, which on this 90+ degree day is suffocating.  Then it’s to the laundry, which for $3 you can do a load of your nasty smelling trail clothes, the kitchen area where meals can be cooked, and a living room with a computer and television (got to have a shower to use the computer).  Though I saw a woman in her 50s, most of the thru-hikers are 20s and early 30s. 

Front porch at the Pine Ellis Hostel, Andover, Maine

Seeing an empty spot, I sit on a porch bench next to Shoo-fly (her trail name), who is most willing to talk.   Having recently quit her job, she says the rule of thumb is that it costs about $4000 to hike the AT for the four to five months that it often takes.  The Whites (White Mountains in NH) are the toughest.  (She hasn’t seen the Maine’s mountains, yet, since she has just crossed into Maine!) 

She says, AT hikers never take blue blaze trails (those trails going to side views of, say, waterfalls or other points of interest) if they are more .2 of mile away.   They have just too many miles (2180 miles) to hike from Georgia to Maine.  She started in early March (now late July) and is on her third pair of Merrell hiking shoes. Merrell will replace one pair of hiking shoes for free for thru-hikers.  She hopes to finish in two weeks at Mount Katahdin in Maine.

On the porch I am taken aback by an ashtray with fifty cigarette butts.  Shoo-fly has a Smart Phone and others have iPods.  She mentions that 9P is the hikers’ midnight.  She says to me, You should hike the trail.  

I take that as a compliment since I am semi-fit for one in my sixties, but I have no spirit for the backpacking life.  One, it rains regularly; two, a 30-40 pound backpack is beyond my capability; three, the tedium of hiking the green tunnel (i.e. what thru-hikers call the trees covering the trail for much of the 2000+ miles), and four, I sleep poorly enough that sleeping with others in a shelter holds no charm for me.  Fact is, five, physically I couldn’t do it.  Thirty-five years of daily running has taken its toll on my knees.  

Just before I get up to go, David the caretaker offers all the hikers a freeze pop on this sweltering day and he offers one to me, too.   In my sad little mind, it’s validation of my acceptance into the thru-hiking sister/brotherhood.

July 2021 Update from our friend George Ellis, “Yes they [Pine Ellis Hostel] are still active and still have their van that runs up to the AT to pick folks up. Hiking was a great Covid activity, although distanced accommodations were probably a challenge at times. There is now only one place to purchase food/meals in town [Andover] now with the two others closed (neither because of Covid).

Dan’s Wednesday Quote of the Week #35 – Michael Douglas, UCSB alum

When asked What do you most want your kids and grandkids to learn from you? Michael Douglas said,

A work ethic. Courtesy to your fellow human beings. And kindness. Which are traits you have to work at and rehearse. Particularly compassion – I feel a certain responsibility to conduct myself as somebody who has been blessed and fortunate simply because I was born a white male. And also to teach them to be good citizens of the planet. I’m conscious of us all being in this together.

Michael Douglas in AARP – The Magazine, April/May 2021

*UCSB – University of California, Santa Barbara

By the way, Hannah I loved the Netflix series, The Kominsky Method starring the aforementioned Michael Douglas. Three seasons of gold.

Dan Becomes Father of the Bride for the First Time – July 2011 Archive

Molly is getting married in ten days.  The story of her meeting Tip Rawding is a great one.  Sit tight.  Six years ago, Molly taught math to 8th graders at Rye Junior High School in New Hampshire.   The school secretary, one Paula Rawding, said in so many words, Would you (Molly) like to go out with my son Tip?  RJHS is a small school and things could get messy if the date didn’t work out, so Molly declined.  Life moved on.  

That summer Molly took a part-time job with Green Penguin Landscaping, as it turns out, where Tip worked.  They hit it off, but alas Tip was dating someone else by then.  During that summer, Molly said to Hannah and me, I blew it [by not going out on that date].  But what could she do? 

A year later Molly fulfilled one of her lifelong dreams and moved to a warmer part of our country, Virginia, to teach in the Alexandria City Public Schools as a middle school math teacher.  Ever the go-getter, a year later she applied to a PhD program in Math Education Leadership at George Mason University.  Part of the application process required her to get letters of recommendation.  Her former principal at RJHS was a natural to write one.   

When Molly called RJHS to get that recommendation, she again got the school secretary, the one and only Paula Rawding, who said in so many words, Tip’s not dating anyone, would it be okay if he called you?   Ms. Cool, Molly said, That would be fine.   Well, the rest is history and she is now Molly Melinda Rawding.   

I’ve got one thing to say.   Thank you Paula!

So ten days before her wedding, Molly drives 500 miles north, like all good York Rothermels do, in a mad dash from Virginia to Maine in ten hours, including a stop at her grandmother’s in New Jersey.  Tip, in the human resources department at Home Depot in Virginia, will come a week later.  Once Hannah comes home from cutting hair at Durgin Pines Nursing Home in Kittery, ME in these pre-wedding evenings, we are on the deck of our one-time B and B having alone time with her.  Molly, for now and maybe for a long time, is just where she should be in Virginia.  We learn of her new job in Annandale, VA, her thoughts about having kids (yes!), and the details of the wedding, like where the sound system will come from when it is realized the reception venue has none.  (Solution – A friend of Tip’s sister Bev came through.)

As 3P approaches on their wedding day, the groomsmen assemble up front.  Tip, who has been hidden away so he won’t see Molly, stands in the front as the eight bridesmaids and nephew ring bearer each slowly walk down the aisle of First Parish Church in York, Maine.  Molly and I are hidden so no one can see the bride through the windows in the door to the sanctuary.  Then the doors open and everyone is looking at us.  Well, let’s get real, at her.  Truly it is all about Molly. 

In the Congregational Church, the minister does not ask, Who gives this woman in marriage?   What she does is have the father of the bride kiss the bride on the cheek, proudly and emphatically shake hands with the groom (at this point Tip free-lances by giving me a bear hug), and then I take the couple’s hands and put them together as one.  How cool is that.  I then walk to my spot next to Hannah and my mother in the front row left.  

Tip reads the vows he wrote first.  On this most wonderful day before our special friends and amazing family, I, Joseph Tipton Rawding, do take you Molly Rothermel as my wife in Friendship and Love. And then he can say no more.  It’s got to be 20 seconds that he stands there composing himself.  No one doubts his love for Molly at this moment.  He eventually has the big ending.  Thank you also for being My Best Friend and Companion and I Promise to do my best to be yours. I love you and always will, My Love.  The guy is a poet to boot.   

Then Molly begins Tip, you are my best friend and my greatest love.  She chokes up and pauses, too.  If this ain’t love!.  I sit in the first row and think that I’ve been there myself with those very same feelings about Hannah, Molly’s Mom. 

Atop Mount Major in New Hampshire ten years later (2021)

Two postscripts.  Our one time dental hygienist had on the celling of the treatment room which we could see when we were on our backs during our cleaning which listed twenty ways to happiness.   Number one on the list.  Choose your spouse wisely.  95% of your happiness depends on that one decision.   Amen.

At the rehearsal dinner lasagna cookout the night before, a woman older than I am asked, How does it feel to be losing a daughter?   That’s so not the way I feel.  I feel we have Tip -and his entire family – joining ours. 

Molly and Tip were married on July 3, 2011.

PS Vault forward to 2021   On Monday of this week, Molly and Tip traveled to a B&B in northern Vermont to celebrate their 10th anniversary.  Hannah and I had Owen (9) and Max (7) for two days which included going to York Harbor Beach and later the Cape Neddick Beach, pizza from the York House of Pizza, ice cream at the Blinking Cone on Long Sands, and a Netflix movie, Surfs Up. Win/win.

Dan’s Wednesday Quote of the Week #34 – Being a Good Sport

From Dusk Night Dawn, Anne Lamott writes A successful writer in her early seventies, she survived a basically unsurvivable cancer twenty-five years ago. I thought she had a migraine, so I asked her if she was okay. She shook her head and sighed,

“I have made a life and career of being a good sport. And I’m worn out.”

Anne continues, All I could think to do in the moment was to agree. Me too. I am sick and tired of being a good sport and worker bee, chin up and adorably ironic.

They are not alone.

Oh, here’s one more gem from Anne.

Fear is not facts.

Dan on Hannah’s Frog Wall – Update July 2021

On March 1, 2020, we had no idea what was coming down the Covid Pike.  That afternoon three days before Hannah and I were set to fly home to Maine, friends from Santa Barbara, Bill and Claudia, had us for lunch.  After, they showed us the Frog Wall of Santa Barbara.

Bill and Claudia with Hannah
Frog Wall in Santa Barbara, California

Immediately that got Hannah thinking of our own Frog Wall in York.  We cleared the land adjacent to our property along Chases Pond Road, finding rocks aplenty for the Frog Wall.

Our Italian stone mason friend Paul got us going with an initial plan.

Our friend Paul working on the Frog Wall

From there Hannah got to work.

Enjoy the 57 second video from July 16, 2021 of York’s granddaughter Frog Wall to Santa Barbara’s Big Mama Frog Wall.

Dan and Hannah and Robert Redford in Sundance, Utah – June 2011 Archive

Taking the Provo Canyon Road (Route 189) along the meandering Provo River, we then turn left onto the Aspen Scenic Highway (Route 92) towards Mount Timpanogos, past Sundance and Aspen Grove to the state park ranger station.  

Returning to Stewart Falls in 2017

In mid-June this year (2011), the road over Mt. Timpanogos is closed due to the snowpack.  The ranger warns us that snows will make hiking a challenge this afternoon.  Immediately after parking, we suit up with fanny packs of trail mix and water, and head to Stewart Falls, some two miles away.  Immediately we discover that a mini-avalanche has covered the trail.  Sixty foot pine trees have been toppled and are strewn about as we step over and under some serious trunks in this heavily forested part of the trail.

Hiking a meandering trail through pine forests, which is as much downhill as up, we spot a 100 yard snowfield that adds to the excitement of the trail.  We slip and slide across it helping others who pass in the opposite direction.  

Mount Timpanogos

One young woman said to me, I need your hand.  We connect as a community of hikers.  Today we are again aware that we are not alone and didn’t get to where we are going by ourselves. 

A popular family hike on this Sunday, Stewart Falls gives us many opportunities to interact with others.  Not 45 minutes after we start, we arrive at the soaring falls, majestically falling to the snowfield below.  

Once back to the parking lot, we look to Mount Timpanogos.  Wide and welcoming at the start, the trail up Mt. Timpanogos has us quickly sidestepping a boot-soaking impromptu steam and sloshing over mushy snowfields.  With another snowfield ahead, we turn back after 25 minutes of hiking.  Hiking in snow is akin to hiking in sand.  We step and slide, two steps forward one step back.  It’s joyless unless you are training for the Olympics or some insane ultra-marathon.  We side-saddle through the snowfields where we see a family “ski” down the snowpack in their boots. 

Pleased and satisfied with our afternoon on the trails in central Utah, we drive down the canyon and stop at Sundance to see what it’s all about.  As we stroll through the grounds, I can’t believe it, but I spot the Sundance Kid. The one and only Robert Redford is literally sitting twenty-five feet away being interviewed outside a screening room on this elegant campus for film folk that he has created.  Star struck, I can’t wait to tell someone.  Three women in their fifties approach.  I say, Have you seen who’s here?  They look and have such joy on their faces.  We are five teenagers.  

Once home I immediately borrow the film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (1969) at the York Public Library, released during Dan and Hannah’s senior year of college.   Initially the screenplay was titled, the Sundance Kid and Butch Cassidy. But with Paul Newman the bigger name and playing the part of Butch, the title was reversed.  

Initially, Steve McQueen was wanted for the Sundance role, but he and Newman couldn’t agree on who would get top billing.  Let me tell you, the movie is timeless and features Katherine Ross riding on a one-speed bike with Newman to the Academy Award winning tune of Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head (B.J. Thomas). 

2021 Update – As you can see by the top picture Hannah and I returned to Stewart Falls in 2017. After Covid-19 postponed both a 2020 and 2021 trip to Utah with our daughter Molly’s family, we hope to once again hike to Stewart Falls with them in 2022. Today Robert Redford is 84 and lives full-time in Santa Monica, California but who knows where he might be in nine months.

Dan’s Wednesday Quote of the Week #33 –

the hardest work we do is self-love and forgiveness.

Ali and I shared a struggle with perfectionism, the most toxic condition of the soul.

Anne Lamott in Dusk Night Dawn: On Revival and Courage (2021)

Hannah’s dear friend and Arizona State University mentor, Nan Inskeep, emailed Hannah last week, “To run, not walk and get this book!” That was enough for me to request it through interlibrary loan from the York Public Library. Since it was Nan recommendation, I began reading it immediately upon bringing the book home. I’ve finished the first chapter and so far, so good.

Anne Lamott is a favorite of ours. We have these three books on our shelves. Bird by Bird is the classic about writing that I read in the 1990s when I began developing as a writer.

Dan and What He Has Learned Over the Last Year and What He Will Take Forward – KGUA #55

2017 at Nevada Falls

For the July 12, 2021 KGUA radio Morning Writer’s Hour hosted by Mark Gross and Peggy Berryhill in Gualala, California, we are asked to freewrite on What have you learned/experienced from the past year and a half that you will carry into the future?

I am carrying the transformative belief to Expect the Good into the future.  As you might guess, it’s a journey as I am in the process of being it on a daily basis. Perhaps, I’m currently in the teenage phase of my development.

You might be thinking, slow down Sparky!  What’s this good you are seeing that’s coming out of the Covid-19 pandemic?

Well, let me explain. 

Certainly, 600K dying, serious health issues for many others, jobs lost, lives disrupted cannot be ignored.  But I am zeroing in on the microlevel of my life, my intentions, my daily practice.  Expecting the Good is my upside look at the downside of the pandemic. 

So, Danny Boy, what if things don’t turn out quote Good.  Stuff happens, you know.

True.  Then I go to part B!   Find the Good

September 2017 with our friends Mary Lynne and Wayne Boardman at the Nevada Falls

For example, take our upcoming September trip to Yosemite National Park.  Hannah and I are fired up and expecting a great day of hiking to the Nevada Falls high above the Yosemite Valley floor.  Even so, we are well aware that it could rain, why it could even snow at that elevation in late summer.  Wildfires could close the park.  Stuff happens. 

If we don’t get to the top, we’ll find some other good that day.  My goodness we are in the Sierras of California.  It can’t be too hard to find some good! 

Expecting the good has me anticipating really cool possibilities on a daily basis.  And then, if it’s not the good I expected, I become more resourceful to find some good.

Words – 241

Post script 2021 – In addition to our Seniors Pass that gives us access to all national parks, this year we need a reservation to be allowed into Yosemite National Park for three days. Easy to procure, the $2 reservation has immediate benefits in that online reviews suggest that the park experience is more manageable and enjoyable without the mobs of touristos we experienced in September 2017.

Dan and Hannah Hike the Bright Angel Trail at the Grand Canyon – (May 2010 Archive #1)

Bright Angel Trail – 1     Dan – 0

Bright Angel Trail

That score has been burned into my mind for the last two years.  

Arriving in late May 2008 to hike the Bright Angel Trail from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon at 10A, Hannah and I take two hours to descend into the canyon at Indian Gardens.  Mistakenly I have the idea that if I drink lots of water, I’ll be fine.  Turns out that that is not a winning strategy climbing out of the canyon, especially in the heat of the day.  Under penetrating sun, I soon feel dizzy, light-headed, and woozy; I learn from a canyon volunteer that I am suffering from hyponatremia – too little salt in my system.  The prefix hypo means low, below normal. natremia – sodium in the blood.

Fed salty snacks and with Hannah’s help, I wobble to the top. Before too long am reasonably coherent, but clearly defeated by this Bad Boy Trail. Today, I look to settle the score.  

Today (2010), driving the 78 miles north from our Flagstaff motel on excellent two-lane roads in the pre-dawn, we encounter very little traffic and are able to park on the road in front of the Bright Angel Lodge.  

Ready early at 730A, we again descend the Bright Angel Trail at 7000 feet with water bottles, trail mix, and liberally-applied sunscreen to begin the nine-mile round trip to Indian Gardens at 4000 feet.  Bracing our knees with each descending step, we enjoy a clearly-marked rocky trail, wide enough for just one, with panoramic views without a cloud in the sky.  

Having lived in Arizona for more than a decade in the 1970s and early 1980s, Hannah and I are on a first name basis with Arizona’s summer heat; said to be a dry heat, to be clear, it’s like living in an oven.  

Stepping aside against the canyon wall and carefully avoiding the prickly pear cactus when the mule trains pass, I smile and wonder why everyone climbing out looks so beleaguered.  I “good morning” everyone.  Unfortunately, my desire to verbally engage goes for naught.  It seems 3/4 of all hikers are European, who nod and pass without reply.  Either they are not confident in their English or just find my upbeat manner a little too annoying. 

Within two hours, we are snacking on peanut butter and crackers as well as gorp under the shade of covered picnic tables at Indian Gardens; we’ve water at the nearby fountain.   By the way, gorp is an acronym for good ol’ raisins and peanuts and is a high-energy trail mix of nuts and fruit. While the thermometer in the shade by the mule hitching posts is 78F, another in the sun brags 110F.  

Our ascent is still hot and shadeless and I am not so chatty.  On steeper inclines our breathing gets heavier. Being the stronger hiker, Hannah sets the pace where my focus is clear.  Get to the rim, just get to the rim, Danny Boy.  It’s a battle, one foot ahead of the other. Nasty smelling mule urine distracts me, but only slightly.  There is water at the three-mile hut and at another hut within a mile and a half of the rim to complement our gorp.   

Approaching the top I have nothing left to give but still in triumph.  Plodding and surviving accurately capture my performance.  Yet, let’s update the score.

Bright Angel Trail – 2 (Very good and still champion) Dan – 1

2021 Post script – Hannah and I have not been back to the Grand Canyon since 2010. Our next time is not that far away (2023?) as it will be with our grandsons, Owen and Max, and then later with Brooks and his identical twin sisters, Charlotte and Reese (2030).